Monday, December 15, 2014

A very strange year

 I know its not quite over yet, and that I didn't finish my last post (on long term to do list) but I just felt compelled to say its been an odd one. (That is about to get even odder).
Gwen crushing moroccan limestone

It started with a very odd conditions winter that led to lots of pleasant but quite frustrating tea drinking in Inverness. There was then the Morrocco adventure (misadventure?), which included a grim week of sickness (that lingered on long after the trip), getting caught out in a lightening storm/flash flood and various logistical obstacles. Shortly after was the alps trip which involved roaming obscure parts of the alps, sleeping in bushes trying to avoid the rain/ landowners. Then was a series of work trips. I don't think I have been on a work trip before. 2 weeks in Copenhagen and a less glamorous 3 weeks in Birmingham, trying to give an intelligent and switched on impression whilst still reeling from possibly still the morroccan sickness.
Copenhagen has alot of friendly statues 'It was this big'

And some less friendly ones

Copenhagen biocentre - a tad nicer architecture than Brambell


Posing for a photo in Birmingham, trying to not make it look posed....
Recently it had all calmed down and got more normal. Work and wall sessions were back on the menu. Obsessivly watching the apprentice, mornings eating banana pancakes. Wondering when it will start to snow and where my crampons are. I started to calm down after the frantic summer and feel like myself again. And instead of enjoying this normality for a little longer I decided to volunteer to go and help fight ebola (as a lab tech), as I didn't really feel like I had a good excuse not to. And I feel priviledged that I am in a position where I have skills that may be of use. So life has got a bit stranger and significantly more challenging again, no family Christmas and no climbing for 6 weeks again. The application/vetting process has been so full on for the past two weeks its left me little time to think about actually going. But now sat in a hotel on a course at Porton Down (no aliens yet) the reality is starting to sink in. I hope I will be ok.


Saturday, August 16, 2014

Schweiz Plaisir Episode 2: 'Adoption'

After the complications of the first few days, we were due some good luck and this came in the form of good weather and being adopted by the chief of the local swiss alpine club branch.

More animals on the walk in. This time a pregnant mule? Is that possible? Does anyone know?

We slogged enormous rucksacks up to Bollenwees, recommended by the helpful lady in the climbing shop, hoping for a place we could camp for a few days. It became apparent this is a very popular area for swiss climbers and walkers and quite farmy, good for admiring pristine cows and walking on manicured tracks...bad for finding wild camping spots. We were not allowed to camp in front of the huge deluxe 'hut' (if it can be called that?) and it was getting dark. Stumbling further uphill in the twilight we came across a small SAC hut, abandoned as it was a weekday surrounded by a walled in flat area.

The perfect spot. We immediately dumped bags and tipped out the contents and started putting up the tent. Suddenly a light came on and there was someone shuffling around. "Quick, quick lets go!", the swiss are not renowned for their tolerance to rule breaking and we started frantically packing with probably more panic than was necessary. "Really really sorry, we are english!" (Our standard excuse for everything) and we thought there was no one here and we thought we were allowed to camp in people's gardens etc etc....

"No don't go! I love everybody who is coming into the mountains!"

"We are so sorry, we will go immediately....oh you don't mind"

"Would you like tea? Water? Chocolate?"

Once again, we had aquired a guardian angel, this time in the form of Andreas Seeger, head of the local SAC and up in the hut by himself doing some DIY. He had walked from the valley with his pots of paint and brushes.

Middle Earth. Bollenwees. The lake was freezing.
Guardian angel sorted, we could finally think about (and do) some climbing.

Tuesday, August 12, 2014

Schweiz Plaisir: Episode 1

 Having conquered (?) Chamonix a couple of summers ago, me and Clare were back to conquer the Dolomites, although things didn't quite go to plan (storms and bladder infections and the like) and we ended up exploring some obscure parts of Switzerland......

'You are on holiday? In St Gallen?' 'You are camping?' The incredulous tone suggested that the tourist information in St Gallen was not so used to dealing with tourists, particularly british climbing bums. Logistics were going to be a problem, we didn't have a road map let alone a guidebook and good wild camping spots seemed few and far between. Undeterred (or a bit deterred, but having a lack of other options) we eventually got pointed in the direction of the climbing wall which proved to be a crucial hub of information, guidebooks, showers, wifi and my new favourite drink Ovalmaltine. It was also the most beautiful and massive climbing wall I have ever seen, so perhaps we could just spend our whole holiday here?

Clare uses her reach in St Gallen - drinking water logistics not a problem in Switzerland

Breakfast at the crag!
Armed with our newly purchased guides (turns out there is a fair bit of climbing about, phew!), we headed up to Ascher for the afternoon. For a little known crag, Ascher is pretty Ceuse-like, requiring a fairly hefty walk-in but is a big long crag with lots a sectors and some great views. The remarkable thing about this crag though was the abundance of farm animals. It was like climbing in a petting zoo (no bad thing). A miniture horse, a chalet full of rabbits and a flock of very pristine looking sheep with a handsome and slightly threatening male sheep looking after them.




We unambitiously tried the easiest route on the crag and just about succeeded before thunderstorms descended.

Monday, August 11, 2014

I thought I'd start blogging again

Well this blog has suffered from a rather large break while I had a blogging crisis. This is perhaps not suprising as I am often too disorganised to wash my underwear before I run out, let alone blog about it. I prefer to believe this is because I try and pack rather alot in and not the result of a major character flaw.

But now I have succeeded in thoroughly overuse injuring myself I might give it another go as a rehabilitation activity. I also found it really good to look back over previous posts and remember things that I otherwise would have definitely forgotten. I think this may particularly come in handy when I am 80 and senile and want to revel in past glories but can't remember them. Blogging also seems to be a fabulous procrastination activity for when one should be producing a groundbreaking bit of PhD research.... it will also no doubt be a great tool for developing my writing skills in preparation for writing a thesis (does that sound convincing?).....

Cow print rock tape. Yeah!

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Hola! from El Chorro

Traversing in the sun on Amptrax
Chamois things that can climb harder slabs than we can, they struggle with finger locks though 
Sophie coming round the corner on El Navegator
Awesome 6b+ pitch on El Navegator
First few days in Chorro and me and Soph have done some fun stuff. We started off with the classic easy multipitch Amptrax (6a+) which was  great. We abbed off after 7 pitches as the sun was going down but not sure we abbed in quite the right place, we think going an extra pitch gives a better line of anchors. The next day I was grumbling about my calves which are no longer used to slab climbing after 3 months of inactivity but we went climbing anyway and they survived.
We warmed up at Sector Suiza on the arab steps and did a nice 6b Dos tetas tiran and then did an excellent multipitch El Navegator (7a+). Sophie did the two trickiest pitches, the bolting is ok but a bit spaced on the 6c pitch and annoyingly the crux is very badly bolted (but escapable). There is a totally fab cracked wall pitch and the last two pitches are in a fantastic position which makes it totally worth doing.

New years eve was spent at la finca which was serving mohitos! I really like mohitos.

Wednesday, December 26, 2012

Review of Wide Boyz

Merry Christmas!

Finally finished writing up my masters thesis and plucked up the courage to switch on the computer again. Instead of watching the traditional Wallace and Gromit Curse of the Were-Rabbit I watched the Hotaches film WideBoyz and wrote a little review below. In short I thought it was fab and blew Odyssey out the water and my mum liked it too. I beleive it is on a par with Curse of the Were-Rabbit, which makes it a definite winner in my opinion.



I really, really enjoyed this film and would recommend it to climbers and non-climbers alike. I think the reason it appealed so much was, that unlike a lot of climbing films it follows a story. Two guys on a mission, going from training on homemade plywood cracks in a basement in Sheffield to the hardest offwidth in the world in the american desert. It’s the climbing equivalent of the Alan Sugar ‘I started out selling windscreen wipers and look at me now’ sort of inspirational ancedote. An assurance that persistence and creativity wins out over even terribly inconvenient goals.

Offwidths are a very unusual speciality and I think they make good subjects for filming. Many films following good climbers see them climb many impressively difficult routes, more often than not they make it look so easy and graceful that you begin to doubt whether it was difficult at all (until you go seek the route out and stand underneath it). This is not a problem with offwidths – Tom and Pete despite their considerable skill are still visibly, physically trying hard. There are also some seldom seen moves pulled out the bag such as many foot-in-crack-above-head moves. I must try that sometime.

This is a great motivating film for anyone that likes training, as it features a section devoted to Tom Randall’s inventive training basement and the number of exercises you can create using a selection of plywood cracks. Finally, unlike a lot of films it is about a successful climbing partnership and their eventual success seems like a proper team effort and I think this is something every climber can relate to.
So watch it. Anyway, hope everyone had an excellent Christmas and I hope to get back on the blogging wagon in the new year now the thesis is over.
 

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Escapism at the Olive Branch

My most hotly anticipated birthday present was a trip to El Chorro with the indefatigable Dr Bevan, from which I have just returned... I was pretty excited at the prospect of possibly being able to take my jumper off after the north walean summer and being able to leave the downie behind for the first time and it was hot hot hot!

However, it was possibly too hot, be warned there are virtually no shady crags so if you are not adapted to desert living then it would be wise to go a bit later in the year. We were only around for 6 days so we wanted to visit as many different crags as possible and explore. This meant trying to flash or get second go as many routes as possible which was a fun challenge. In the lead up I had been concentrating on lobbing practice to reduce that above-the-bolt phobia and also trying some redpoint projects where I had to move more dynamically than I do usually. Along with having an awesomely supportive belayer this led to some primo performances and being able to push much closer to my physical limit than I have before. For someone who has always struggled with 'head' issues this was a welcome break ( I am sure this isn't the last I will hear of them though...).

Conquests included: Little Brown Baby (7a+) at Sector Castrojo - an amazing pumpy route that is easy on your finger skin and in the shade at about 4. Failed.
Cono paco at Sector Suizo (7a) which has a rep as being easy for the grade but its more cruxy than easy (which is frustrating if you can't do the crux). Success!
Poema de Roca  at poema de roca (7a) - is the super classic of the area, looks totally amazing but had bees drinking from the tufas.... this is not a hazard I had encountered before and I insisted it would be fine until my face was six inches from a whole herd of agitated pollinators. I had images of the whole hunger games type thing and decided no route was worth dying of bees. It is also not in the shade until 4.30 despite what people may tell you!! Failure.
El truco del almendruco (7a) at Los Albercones - caught our eye as a three star wall climb, which is what tiggers do best. It is a wall climb with a hard and hard to read crux. Gets into the shade when it gets dark. Success!
Everything (almost) at Buena Sombra Desplomilandia - is in the shade all day hooray! Although you need to make friends with cars to get there and back. Highlights of the crag are Buena Sombra (6b+) which is cool tufa climbing, Coconut yoghurt (6c) for which the Hole of Creation is probably the best training. Incidentally I tried eating tesco coconut yoghurt the other day and I'm not sure about it. The route is better than the food stuff. Viejos y puretas (7a) the hard bulge felt bunchy, good if you like being bunched. Success, success success!!
Zepplin (6c+) in the gorge, 10 pitches of generally full value climbing. Not in the shade, start early! I remember being dragged up this in my second year of university and having to stand in slings to aid the main pitch (and actually most of the hard pitches), so it was a good progression to come back and lead it clean (clean is relative - both me and Ruth had a bit of an aid on the roof pitch and a bit of a pull on a draw to get off the belay on the 6c+ but other than those minor indiscretions....). All of the tricky pitches feel full value for the grade, esecially with the sun and multipitch kit. The traversey nature of some of the pitches makes it a good idea to carry prussiks! Memorable day out... Success!

Morning in the gorge before Zepplin!
The not enough footholds 6c roof
Looking down over the railway!
Last tricky pitch on Zepplin!

We were camping at the Olive Branch which was an excellent base. It was set up by accident four years ago by Mel and Gary, neither of whom knew about the climbing in the area at the time. They picked up some hitchhiking climbers who happened to want to rent a room and who the started recruiting more climbers to come and camp on the floor. They had the nouse to realise this had potential and turned it into what is now a very busy little hub of climbers, with a plush bunkhouse and a terraced garden for camping. There is a really friendly atmosphere, with everyone keen to go out of their way to help out and lend stuff and improvise to solve any problem.

The must do rest day activity of the area is the Caminito del Ray - a walkway built in the 1920s along the gorges. It is still standing in the main and has turned into an exciting via ferrata type activity. The second gorge is especially narrow and beautiful and makes you feel like you are on some sort of Indiana Jones style adventure.

Looking back over at the train tunnels

Bridge worthy of slate quarries...

Having crash landed back in normal life again, with two months to go until the deadline for my masters thesis I am beginning a bit of a month long hibernation. At least its November. I will largely be found in my windowless airless office or at the bouldering walls. I am hoping to fit bouldering in around my thesis. Partly because power is currently my biggest weakness and also because indoor bouldering is pretty time and faff efficient and will detract the least from my writing. This also means a bit of a break from blog writing so will hopefully be back on it in December! Adios!

Saturday, October 13, 2012

A successful redpoint....

I was very happy yesterday to escape my windowless office and decamp to the Orme, I was even happier to send a route that I'd tried sporadically for several years! I was reminded of how enjoyable redpointing can be and the good feeling you get when you prepare for something properly and it pays off!
The successful mission started last weekend, when I was struggling to find a climbing partner for Sunday even though the weather looked perfect. I phoned up Murdoch to have a moan about my lack of partners, which was a bit unfair as this pails in comparison to having a non-functional leg. However, being the gentlemanly sort of fellow that he is, he offered to belay on the proviso that we didn't really walk anywhere. Marine drive was then the obvious choice of location for a broken belayer as you can pretty much belay from the car. I 'warmed up' on Anchovy Madonna (E3, 5c), which had been recommended me as a warm up by Sohphie Whyte. I could see the logic (it is easier than warming up on any of the sport climbs) but it was still too hard for me to onsight through the bulge, and I ended up sitting on the bolt until I discovered some new handholds. Further up it turns into a lovely exposed trad climb which I did alright at except for being a bit sloooow.

Next up was a return to Homo sapien, which as well as having a wonderful zoological themed name, is less burly than alot of the Orme sport climbing and therefore suits me a bit better. I put the clips in with a clipstick like a big wuss, as its hard enough for me that putting the clips in on lead would probably require draining all my physical and mental reserves. Once I had done this I could learn the sequence again, especially neccessary to get through the very fingery start. It was pretty satisfying as the holds are tiny and bobbly with lots of thumb dishes, so initially they seem really poor but they get better and better as you learn the exact position to hold them. With a bit of trepidation we pulled the rope and I had a try on lead before the sun went down. Although I didn't get it, it broke a couple of mental barriers and instead of finding the whole route scary it was reduced to a couple of scary moments and a whole lot that I could do just fine. It suddenly went from impossible to imminantly possible. All it needed was some fresh arms and fresh skin.

Sophie working Homo sapien

However, if I took too long to get round to it I would have to relearn it all again so I set the arbitary deadline of my birthday (this Sunday) to get it done by. I made an effort to rest my arms properly, flaking on all my pre-arranged wall sessions because my shoulders were still sore (sorry partners!) and reminding myself of the moves whenever I got a moment (on the loo, having a tea break). Friday brought a breif weather window and everything was lined up - cold temps, supportive belayer, rested body. I had a bit of a shock when marine drive was desterted except for one team which appeared to be on my route, how dare they get on MY route, just when I want a go!!! Misplaced anger over, it turned out they were Sophie and Owen and they were actually on the route next door. It all went to plan - I put the clips in and had a swing around on some of the moves to warm up - it was very very cold! The pulled the ropes and got on asap before any cooling down could happen. I had that nice feeling on moves that had seemed at my limit last week were now comfortably within it (who could guess, practise makes you better at stuff?!) and despite feeling quite nervous made it to the chain without incident. Lots of whoops and grinning!

Is it a pot of gold? No, its Brian.
While I had been having fun, Brian had been slowly dying of hypothermia so it was time for some payback and we went over to String of pearls and he had a pop at onsighting it placing draws (a brave enterprise) but was spat off thankfully above the scary bit by some totally soaking rock. At this point it started raining and we all retreated into Llandudno for some celebratory cake and lattes.

DIY Information
All routes are on marine drive - park by the route but its a toll road so you have to pay the man £2.50
Minding the wooden spoon at work for a month...
Anchovy Madonna - E3, 5c but also has three bolts on the steep bit. Lots of good wires on the rest of it!
Homo Sapien - 7a+ big arms not required but strong fingers a bonus!
String of pearls - 6b+ but more like E3, the clips are not where you most need them (in my opinion)!
 Coffee - Fountains cafe/bar. Nice and cosy, range of cakes and coffees!

Sunday, October 7, 2012

The Hole of Creation

Sophie beholding the wonders of the hole....


Yesterday me and Sophie went for on an expedition to the Hole of Creation. Similar to Phileas Foggs expedition to the Centre of the Earth it took us quite a long time to get there and was filled with perilous encounters (generally with grass slopes in our case).
Once we had found the appropriate perilous grass slope we could behold the wonders of the Hole of Creation! We were amused to find it somewhat resembled a giant sculpture of some female genitalia... not deterred by its unusual appearance I started flippering up the side of the slimy bulge, trying fairly unsuccessfully to seat wires in the mouths of cavernous pockets. Despite it being steep and taking the notion of 3Dimensionalness to another level there are a reasonable amount of large jugs to aid progress so it is more weird than hard to get into the 'hole'. Once inside the hole the climb continues past some insitu threads - the top one being a massive jug. However to reach this hold some very strange reverse bridging needs to take place and it took several retreats into the hole for me to get my head around it and some excellent efforts by my calves and glutes. Eventually, after some more patient belaying by Sophie, I reached the lower off in a state of confusion and the Hole of Creation was ours!!

DIY information
The Hole of Creation is situated in a secret location on the Little Orme. It is given E3 6a, but generally considered very soft for the grade and the hard bit is definitely very safe. (I still found it very tricky....)
Starting up the hole, shortly before I decided to
take my helmet off!
In the hole - what do I do now??!!
Sophie being 3 Dimensional
The grass approach!
The Great Orme looking great....

Wednesday, October 3, 2012

Not so trad swim


Given Sunday's apocalyptic rainfall, there seemed to be one obvious option for a suitable outdoor activity. My housemates are members of Not so Trad, the southern gay and lesbian climbing club who were up on a club trip and they had planned a big gay swim across the lake. Ben Tibbets and I formed a heterosexual splinter group, Ben looking the most flamboyant of anyone in my pink wetsuit. Getting across the lake went pretty much to plan, but the squall hit on the return journey with those in boats having to fight hard against the windage.


Unfortunately, other than being flamboyant, my wetsuit was also cutting off Ben's airways, meaning that heterosexuality took a bit of a beating in the unofficial race.

A pretty cold looking Padarn and Ben not quite escaping the picture
Ben 'I'm comfortable with my sexuality' Tibbets
It was also on Sunday that I discovered my new favourite food of the week! There are lots of very ripe mangos in the supermarket at the mo and I really like buying them but then forgetting to eat them, so finding a new way to eat mango was great.
You take mango, milk and yoghurt and process well in blender to give great tasting and proteinaceous mango lassi!

Me donning my 'I'm a triathalete hat from the other week'

The Robinson Round

For the first time ever my OMM running partner from last year is keen to do the event with me again and we met up recently for our annual training jog. With me living in North Wales and Jenny hailing from Glasgow the sensible place to meet was the Lakes and even though I was slightly grumpy to leave my bubble and drive somewhere (I have become pretty lazy having all the nice crags and mountains to hand), it was actually a very worthwhile experience getting out in someone else's mountains. Rocio was keen to come along too and witness the preparation for this important sporting event. Our formula from last years training weekend (go for at least one long run, make some dinner, drink wine and talk about boys) seemed to work well so we stuck with that and we shall see where it gets us this year.
Picking up some uphill speed??! Go me and Jenny!
Photo: Rocio Siemens



The weather had conspired against us to provide us with a stunningly sunny windless weekend, weather that will be nothing like the actual OMM weekend. Although on the upside it did encourage us to run for longer and take some lovely photographs.
I had left little time to plan an actual route but in my hasty planning session I spotted a hill with my name on it and it therefore seemed logical to base the route around it!

So, the Robinson Round (as it shall henceforth be known...):
Start in Braithwaite
Up Grisedale Pike (791m)
Eel Crag (840m)
Along to Sail Pass
Down and up to Ard Crags an along to Knott Rigg
Up Robinson (737m)
Along the edges to Dale Head (753m)
High spy (653m)
Maiden Moor (576m)
and then wiggle along roads back to Braithwaite

It worked out at just over 25km and quite alot of up and down, but it is a good runnable route!

Jenny slogging up my namesake hill - Robinson!
Robinson on Robinson
Photo: Rocio Siemens
End of the day jog down and out where cider and crisps await!
Photo: Rocio Siemens

We were staying in Helvellyn Youth Hostel, which was inconvieniently located near the summit of Helvellyn but after a long potholey track we finally arrived to cook fine splodge and drink fine cider.

Day 2 was somewhat more lackluster and we ambled up High Street and back down to Patterdale to sit and gossip outside the cornershop while Rocio found a friendly farmer to take her back to the car. It being stunning weather I probably should have felt some guilt that I wasn't out climbing, but I had forgotten that running in lovely weather is extremely enjoyable. And there is something satisfying about being able to move 10km in a similar amount of time that it would take me to move about 40m when trad climbing......

Anyway thanks very much to Jenny and Rocio for a lovely weekend, and I am now pretty psyched for the OMM. Bring it OMM???

Thursday, September 27, 2012

Traditional Horrowshow Training Programme.

Last week I had the opportunity to return to Tremadog and do battle with the classic HVS 'Strapiombo'. Over the past few weeks I've been trying to push myself on things that I don't normally like doing and I flagged this route up as something I probably wouldn't like doing;  'Struggle up the flared chimney in a state of physical exhaustion and abject horror' says North Wales rock. In the past I have been frustrated by my ability to climb techy E2 walls quite nicely and fail completely when faced with a traditional ledgy thrutchy VS. I have since realised that I am never going to get better at thrutchy VSs by climbing harder techy walls and constructed myself a bit of a traditional horrowshow training programme. I guess this route belongs to that programme.

Essentially I was going to cheat, using black diamond's largest camelot creations, to get runners where no self respecting hobnail booted fellow had got them before.



Some patient belaying from Owen later, I was 'established' within the fissure and commenced slow and painful upwards progress. For those climbing from a purely fitness perspective I would estimate that squeeze chimney climbing probably burns more calories per unit of rock ascended than any other kind of climbing. It is also a true unavoidable test of endurance, more than once I had the impulse to sit on the rope, always skittering the camelot up beside me but if you were to relax and 'rest' you might become irreversable wedged in the narrower back of the crack only to have to extert more effort to get yourself out again. The human equivalent of a cam 'walking'.

I reached an impasse near the top where upwards progress began to seem impossible. Then I realised, I was trying to climb the chimney like a wall again. I then adopted a technique not dissimilar to the video below with much more success.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpWATMtTPkk


Must squeeze harder.....
I was thoroughly disappointed when Owen cruised it on second, as I was maliciously hoping he struggle as I had done and save my ego...... it evidently isn't actually as hard as I just made it sound.

Previously in the day we had basked in the sunshine on Hardd (beautiful, not hard in welsh, although it is hard), on Carreg Hylldrem and finished off with Silver Crow, on Pant I Fan.


Owen across the funny tremadog ramps of Hardd
Me leading downwards off the belay, to avoid extreme excitment on second the in situ anchors mean the second
can backrope although this may lead to confusion when the leader is belaying out of earshot....
Thanks very much to Owen Samuels for a fun day out and all the piccies!

I have had a request to include the grades of stuff so here is a graded list:
Strapiombo - ungradeable
Hardd - E2
Silver Crow - E1




Tuesday, September 18, 2012

A slow week for ice creams.....

Waiting for the rush at South Stack
It has once again been a mulled wine weather week in the north of wales. Undeterred me and Rich headed to Gogarth on thursday for some sunshine. There was very little sunshine but to make up for it there was a whole lot of wind.......
For once we had Castell Helen to ourselves and headed down to do Kalihari. I had never looked into that area before but its quite a cool/intimidating place. We warmed up up Atlantis and then due to intimidation/ tiredness/ complete lack of time management on my part thought better of it and headed up True Moments/Freebird.

Crag hits woman in face
This was an uneventful, enjoyable experience apart from a cam levering a rock off into my face halfway along the traverse. Must not look at gear when testing it....

Next up was Tremadog Saturday with Ruth, who was once again about the multisport action, combining festival number 6 with a days climbing. It was a momentous day for Ruth as she had apparently spent 10 years trying to locate Stromboli buttress and we finally managed it!
Where could it be?
Once reached, we climbed Stromboli which was an ace example of Tremadog tecchy 3D weirdness, featuring an entertaining V chimney. We then totally failed to find Helsinki wall, but if it takes 10 years to find a crag then you can't expect to find all the routes on your first visit.
Ruth emerges from the jaws of the chimney
So we walked all the way round to Pant I Fan. I have somehow developed an affection for chimneys, even though I'm no good at climbing them and had my heart set on Strapiombo, but Ruth sensibly opted for Falcon, possibly the loveliest of all Tremadog E1/2s and we did that instead. (But I will be back....).

The next day was my team triathalon debut, as the swimmer for the Test Tube Triathaletes in the anglesey sandman. Having woken up with the world's dodgiest knee, I was not psyched to hear they had moved the swim due to poor conditions and we would have to run there and back. However, after a bit of self-physio, stretching and giving my knee a good talking to I was back on form and away to the swim. This was one of the weirder things I have done, the waves and chop were pretty big and there were about 200 swimmers entering the water. It was like swimming in a super-pod of uncoordinated dolphins, without being able to communicate ultrasonically you were doomed to crash into your fellow swimmers, significantly slowing progress. Anyway, I made it and then discovered my niche in this sport. My swimming had been fairly average but running in a wetsuit - this is my sport! I overtook about 50 people and arrived at the transition area like a packet of boil-in-the-bag rice.


Orca. Like a whale..... Thanks to Robbie for the picture and Rob for the wetsuit

Despite the howling wind, driving rain and continous repeatitions of 'We're live, we're racing' from the commentary booth it was a fun and sociable day. I am extremely grateful to Chloe and Johnny for letting me use their base camp van and to John and Ffion for our fab performance! Maybe one day I will learn to cycle and really get into this sort of stuff!

Top weekend was topped off with a chilled, slightly limpy run over Moel Elio with Brian (amazingly the stern talking to was all the knee needed!), and then a mission planning session with OMM running partner, Glasgow superphysio Jenny. The OMM is once again scarily close, better get running (and dust off the compass again?)!