The successful mission started last weekend, when I was struggling to find a climbing partner for Sunday even though the weather looked perfect. I phoned up Murdoch to have a moan about my lack of partners, which was a bit unfair as this pails in comparison to having a non-functional leg. However, being the gentlemanly sort of fellow that he is, he offered to belay on the proviso that we didn't really walk anywhere. Marine drive was then the obvious choice of location for a broken belayer as you can pretty much belay from the car. I 'warmed up' on Anchovy Madonna (E3, 5c), which had been recommended me as a warm up by Sohphie Whyte. I could see the logic (it is easier than warming up on any of the sport climbs) but it was still too hard for me to onsight through the bulge, and I ended up sitting on the bolt until I discovered some new handholds. Further up it turns into a lovely exposed trad climb which I did alright at except for being a bit sloooow.
Next up was a return to Homo sapien, which as well as having a wonderful zoological themed name, is less burly than alot of the Orme sport climbing and therefore suits me a bit better. I put the clips in with a clipstick like a big wuss, as its hard enough for me that putting the clips in on lead would probably require draining all my physical and mental reserves. Once I had done this I could learn the sequence again, especially neccessary to get through the very fingery start. It was pretty satisfying as the holds are tiny and bobbly with lots of thumb dishes, so initially they seem really poor but they get better and better as you learn the exact position to hold them. With a bit of trepidation we pulled the rope and I had a try on lead before the sun went down. Although I didn't get it, it broke a couple of mental barriers and instead of finding the whole route scary it was reduced to a couple of scary moments and a whole lot that I could do just fine. It suddenly went from impossible to imminantly possible. All it needed was some fresh arms and fresh skin.
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| Sophie working Homo sapien |
However, if I took too long to get round to it I would have to relearn it all again so I set the arbitary deadline of my birthday (this Sunday) to get it done by. I made an effort to rest my arms properly, flaking on all my pre-arranged wall sessions because my shoulders were still sore (sorry partners!) and reminding myself of the moves whenever I got a moment (on the loo, having a tea break). Friday brought a breif weather window and everything was lined up - cold temps, supportive belayer, rested body. I had a bit of a shock when marine drive was desterted except for one team which appeared to be on my route, how dare they get on MY route, just when I want a go!!! Misplaced anger over, it turned out they were Sophie and Owen and they were actually on the route next door. It all went to plan - I put the clips in and had a swing around on some of the moves to warm up - it was very very cold! The pulled the ropes and got on asap before any cooling down could happen. I had that nice feeling on moves that had seemed at my limit last week were now comfortably within it (who could guess, practise makes you better at stuff?!) and despite feeling quite nervous made it to the chain without incident. Lots of whoops and grinning!
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| Is it a pot of gold? No, its Brian. |
DIY Information
All routes are on marine drive - park by the route but its a toll road so you have to pay the man £2.50
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| Minding the wooden spoon at work for a month... |
Homo Sapien - 7a+ big arms not required but strong fingers a bonus!
String of pearls - 6b+ but more like E3, the clips are not where you most need them (in my opinion)!
Coffee - Fountains cafe/bar. Nice and cosy, range of cakes and coffees!
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